Wine Travel Destination: Douro Valley, Portugal

You will fall in love with the DOURO.
Northern Portugal’s claim as the most beautiful wine region in the world is supported by the grandeur of its landscape and wines. Hewn from schist mountainsides like unpolished granite, the steep-terraced vineyards rise above the majestic Douro River’s ribbon of water far below. For centuries, its remoteness—the journey on twisting, cobbled roads—made it hard to reach. Today, it’s easy. Even so, this is a place where neighborhood dogs sleep in the village streets and the annual cycle of the vines seems timeless. Sit on a terrace in the evening, a glass of white Port and tonic in hand, and listen to the distant, mournful hoot of the evening river train. The land is calm, and calming.

Where to Dine

Eat at "DOC", between Pinhão and Peso da Régua, at "Castas e Pratos" or "DOURO IN" in Peso da Régua, winemakers’ hot spots for celebrated modern cooking. These Douro Restaurants wine list are impressive. Arrive by river if you want—there are several boat docks. "Castas e Pratos" is diferent of all others because it's placed in the old train station buildings. On the riverfront in Peso da Régua, "DOURO IN" is popular with wine locals for its modern interpretations of classic Portuguese dishes. For a friendly welcome and traditional family food—especially fresh fish and chicken—head for "Ponte Romana" near Pinhão’s old bridge.

Where to Stay
Quinta do Vallado Wine Hotel is run by the descendants of the 18th-century grande dame of the Douro, Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. Stay in the renovated historic manor house or in the 21st-century wing.
For classic home cooking, stupendous Douro views and a huge building with great “enfilade” halls, testimony of a palatial tradition, keeping the original ceilings and colours in its interior and the époque furniture, where you can still enjoy the atmosphere of the great vineyard houses of the Douro region, in particular in the dining room, illuminated by candles, on the hills above Pinhão you'll find Morgadio da Calçada.
Wishing to stay at a modern facility, on a hotel with its eyes on the Douro? Stay at Delfim Douro a four star hotel, with 42 rooms, a restaurant, swimming pool abroad and also briefly a spa, using in its design high-quality materials resulting in refinement and luxury.

Where to Taste

There are several wineries that offer different atmospheric ventures into Port wine production, including tours to the open lagars (fermenting vats). Enjoy tastings in modern bars with views over the river. There is also family-style welcome at several Quintas, like Casa Amarela and Quinta de São José. Visit Quinta da Devesa above Quinta do Vallado, after a twisting, sometimes scary, cliff-hugging drive, arrive at it's promontory which overlooks the confluence of the rivers Douro and Corgo, from where a wonderful sight can be enjoyed, covering the valleys of the two rivers and mountains of the 4 districts that surround it. But don’t limit yourself to these suggestions: Stop along the way at any quinta, and make sure to taste the Douro table wines as well as the Ports.

When to Go
March–June for almond blossoms, wild flowers and budding vines; September and October for harvest time.

Prominent Wines
Famed for its Port wines, the Douro also offers redoubtable red table wines. Rich and powerful, they vie with the wine world’s top selections. Still, no one goes to the Douro without tasting Port. Naturally, every option is here, straight from the quinta—a Port lover’s heaven. Try the late-bottled vintages (LBVs), vintages, the tawny variations (golden-brown from aging in wood for 10–40 years) and the rare vintage-dated colheitas—there’s no experience that can compare to tasting a Port older than you are. All the Port and table wines are products of some of Portugal’s finest native grape varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca are among the best.

Budget Tip
Take a picnic to the chapel of São Salvador do Mundo near São João da Pesqueira. Enjoy the best Douro River views down almost vertical slopes. Take the train along the Douro through vineyards, villages and the moon-like granite landscape from Pinhão to Ferradosa. At Ferradosa, you can walk to a small restaurant with beautiful views over the river and feast on some great traditional food.

Other Activities
The Foz Côa prehistoric rock-art site in Douro Superior features 20,000-year-old rock carvings interpreted by clever guides. The Côa Valley Archaeological Park is remote and arid. Carvings, long a part of shepherd gossip, were recognized in the beginning of the 1990s when it was to be flooded for a dam. Make reservations for four-wheel-drive tours.

Adapted from a text by ROGER VOSS in WINE ENTHUSIAST.
http://www.winemag.com/Web-2012/Wine-Travel-Destination-2013-Douro-Valley-Portugal/